Lundy Club Trip – September 2010

In a change to the usual club write-up below are the thoughts of some of the people who went to the Lundy. The trip consisted of Mark Hazell, John Mitchener, Rob Munday, Liam Dutton, Sue Luck, Mark Brewster, Paul Highams, Katy Dartford, Zara Bloomfield and Ian Hicks. We were also joined by friends Adrian Paisey, John Shields and Kevin Faux after other club members dropped out.Zara’s report is pictorial below.

Lundy, magical little island rising out of the mist and the wild atlantic – majestic and beautifully groomed goats (and their sculls – now proudly displayed on my mantelpiece) – First day we battled
with westerly winds and my nerves – completely frayed by two years of minimal climbing and now confronting massive scary abseils straight down into crashing waves and seeming oblivion. A few tears later along with container loads of Mark Brewster patience and encouragement, the courage slowly returned; as did the sunshine and a glorious week to follow – some wind, NO rain and perfect in everyway. We climbed at Picnic Bay, Devils Slide, Arch Zawn, Torrey Canyon, Beaufort Butress and spent hours watching seals at Brazen Point. Great company and lots of giggles during mealtimes in The Barn. A week to be recommended and hopefully at some time in the future to be repeated. Thank you Mr Hazell for organising it. Sue Luck

The Island: hard on the legs, easy on the eye.
The Climbs: either blessed with gear, or had prayers recited when the gear was eventually placed. But always excellent.
The Rock: Thankfully perfect friction and frequently looked good in the late sun (and also at dusk by head torch……)
The Company: Fantastic, and very accommodating even when threesomes were mentioned….Thanks!
The Food and Beer: Just right, even in excesses.
The Experience: To be fondly remembered….
Kevin Faux

Ian Hicks and Jon Shields – the latter gleefully stepping into Mandy’s shoes at the 11th hour and fresh from their success on Aiguille Dibona (surprisingly Brit free given the feature article in August’s ‘Climber’ mag) – climbed 15 routes during their 5 day stay. Starting with a Moderate (Flying Buttress) – down climbed on Day 1 to a modest soaking at the cliff base through to E1
(Satan’s Slip) by Day 2 – an unbelievable day in splendid sun drenched isolation, apart from a couple of curious seals observing their progress. In the Devil’s Slide area on Bank Holiday Monday!
Perfect climbs and weather rolling on though Tuesday and Wednesday. Thursday was their final day and aware that time, tide nor the MS Oldenberg waits for no man they left early for Beaufort Buttress. Jon led Capstan’s Arete (VS 4b) to compliment his lead on Admiral’s Arete (E1 5a) the previous day to bracket the buttress. Then the intrepid (some might say foolish) pair ventured into
Freak Zawn in search of ‘Salty Dog’. The words freak and salty became particularly apt as, having watched the water for a while and deciding it was ‘on’, they were then hit by two large waves coming in at over head height, soaking both to the skin. A hasty and chastened retreat was made, honour being restored by Ian leading, with suitable goading, Stuka (VS 4b) as the dripping finale before stripping down to underpants (none of this ‘going commando’ nonsense) on the top to dry out in the sun – superb!.
Top Tip – If your camera gets immersed in sea water it’s almost certainly a ‘right off’ but what of the precious photos?. Avoid the temptation to try read the card before soaking said card in fresh water for an hour then allowing to dry completely and behold – a miracle!
Ian Hicks

Awesome climbs, impeccable conditions, stunning scenery, fabulous bunkhouse, great company… arguably my best week’s massaging…. I mean climbing!
Liam Dutton

Paul climbed really rubbish and spent most of the time in the pub – katy had to drag him out most mornings against his will. She climbed ok though. weather was good.
Katy Dartford

Lundy, adventure climbing at its best, a challenge to find the climb, hold your nerve to get to it, proper old school grades. First sea stack climb, first E1 that was more than one move, so many quality routes. TV, facebook and txting replaced by darts, jenga and scrabble. Simple choices, old light or experience, starter or pudding or both. What day of the week is it, who cares. Never met
kitty, don’t think she climbed much, but she kept asking for a tenner; were we all paying for Liam’s massages?
Paul Highams

Although the last day of the trip was another fantastic day of weather and climbing with route such as Diamond Solitaire and The Gem, five stars would have to be awarded to our mini adventure to Sunset Promontory to take in Eclipse and The Black Hand. With a tricky approach requiring two abseils the bolder beach is reached and a lovely spot it is too. It wouldn’t matter which pitches
fell your way on these two routes but leading up the second not very well protected arête pitch of Eclipse was a great joy With great company and the climbs completed back to the Marissco Tavern for a cold one or two. Paradise! Could any one wish for much more?
Rob Munday
Superb sea cliff climbing, Fantastic weather, and good company. I managed to climb for six out of the seven days and got a few new ticks in on routes I hadn’t done before. Highlight of the week was climbing Formula One and the Needle. My forth climbing trip to Lundy and I still want to go back for more.
Mark Hazell